Category: travel log

the lake district, minus the rain

lakes 3

With our friend Lincoln visiting from oz we took a long weekend and headed back down to the lake district. Rather than focusing on walking we explored lots of the little villages and visited many of the lakes, with some of the most perfect weather in UK Feburary history showing them at their most spectacular.

lakes 4

Most of the towns and villages are tacky tourist nightmares – packed even at this time of the year, although we unearthed a few gems in the southern lakes near where we were staying, in particular Broughton-in-Furness a proper market town with poetic locals commenting on the depth of the sunset.

lakes 1

The highlights were drives over the mountain passes between regions, spotting future locations for magnificent hillwalking (above), and the odd moment when we discovered peaceful little spots by the lakes away from the main drag, in particular the beach on Coniston Water (top) and the little peninsula that the photos of Ullswater (above) were taken from, which had a cute little boathouse nestled next to it (below).

lakes 2

The surrealest moment however had to be Grange-over-(not quite) sands a victorian seaside town where the local river has changed its course, leaving a swath of boggy salt marshes behind (below), yet the promenade is still full of people taking a turn, observing sheep grazing below them.

For more reflectastic photos check out the flickr set

conniston beach

atp: the nightmare before christmas

portishead atp

While it might be possible to hold an outdoor festival in the middle of winter in benign Byron Bay, surely festival season has wrapped up months ago here in the UK. Not so fast however however – there is a solution – the ultimate in family holiday fun – Butlins Holiday Camps and the kind folks at All Tomorrow’s Parties & Portishead to the rescue.
It was time for a road trip, destination – deepest darkest Somerset, with a pile of CD’s, hire care and a map of Britain that filled the windscreen it was a seven hour trip from Glasvegas via the M6 & M5.

birmingham

We broke our trip with morning tea in Birmingham in the basement of the funky Future SystemsSelfridges (above), and watched the sun set with a homage at Portishead harbour (below).

portishead
As the band named after the town were curating the festival it seemed that most of the acts were either – bands from Bristol or on Portishead member Geoff Barrow’s Invada Records label. Portishead themselves played both Friday & Saturday nights – we saw their second set – very laid back and polished with many of their new tracks thrown in.
Other headliners Julian Cope and Aphex Twin were more of a mixed bag. Julian Cope was entertaining with his motley crew of bikers and ended his set with a garrulous five minute rant. Aphex also played twice and we saw parts of both sets – they were a little commercial and not eclectic enough for my taste.
Our highlights for what they’re worth were:

Chrome Hoof - the new genre of doom disco spearheaded by this ten piece multi-instrumental silver lame clad outfit is heading your way – either dance or duck!

Autolux – artful poppy noise from LA, with some beautiful drumming courtesy of the female drummers loose style (and perhaps her bionic elbow?) – great website too.
Fuck Buttons – danceable electro laptop beats from – you guessed it Bristol – these guys were so good early on that they were put on again to close the event.
Overall the concept for the festival works brilliantly – the crazy circus tent covered ‘street’ that spans between venues, bars and tacky amusement arcades (below) creates a very civilised festival atmosphere (complete with people picnicking on the ‘grass’ coloured carpet!). Achingly cool hipsters wandering around in such a searingly cheesy setting further enhances the surreal impression. And the cabin accommodation in endless barrack style rows is a very pleasant step up from the usual tented quagmire that accompanies summer festivals.

atp

Our sleepy journey home was broken only by a quick visit to Bristol where we took in Clifton and its famous suspension bridge (below) before hightailing back along the motorway.

clifton bridge

usa: architecture

federal building SF 1

While we tried to keep our usual architouring to a minimum to avoid totally ruining our friends holiday we did manage to sneak in a few select gems on our trip.

MoMA

In New York firstly I was a little disappointed with the new MoMA – I felt it lacked coherence and any clear rationale. There were some interesting spaces, particularly the main sculpture hall (above) – animated by people circulating through the gallery but the exhibition rooms themselves were fairly bland (ok maybe it should be about the art).

ps1

PS 1 in Queens (above) was a much more interesting space – situated in an old Primary School the only real architectural intervention is the wall at the front creating a serene courtyard, the interiors still feel like the kids only left yesterday (although the standard of their finger painting was pretty high). At times it was eerily like Toul Sleng in Pnom Penh – quiet neglected corridors filled with evocative imagery.

new museum

On our final day in New York Chhay & I snuck off for some more focused architectural voyeurism. We started with the new New Museum by SANAA (above) which was only days away from completion and looking fantastic – an ethereal series of stacked boxes, at once gritty and urban in the Bowery context yet at the same time light and delicate. The cladding of galvanised mesh over fibre cement was so utilitarian yet diaphanous – a true delight. It was a pity we missed the opening as would like to experience the interior of one of their buildings.

storefront
We followed that with a visit to a tired looking yet still successful Storefront for Art & Architecture (above). They had an exhibition of new Danish work including a lot of work by BIG, a firm that should we ever end up in Denmark I would love to work for – I really enjoy their playful yet well researched approach. Staying in the same area we had a rather damp look at some of the new ‘starchitect’ apartment blocks in SoHo – Nouvel’s 40 Mercer (below) & Herzog & DeMeuron’s 40 Bond, all very glam but fairly restrained overall, apart from the lower level cladding of H & DeM’s baby.

40 mercer
With the weather getting steadily worse we abandoned any attempt to see more buildings and legged it to diller + scorfidio’s The Brasserie (below) where we seriously lowered the tone – especially once we realised that cocktails were half price!

brasserie
Once in San Francsico we were in capable hands with our hosts interest in architecture.
As I mentioned previously the Federal Building by Thom Mayne (below + top) was our first stop. Although it is quite brutally inserted into its 3-4 storey context the level of detailing and polish is amazing. There may be a little too much going on for some tastes but it was one of the best high rise office buildings I have encountered. Unfortunately it was a Sunday so we couldn’t get inside (I’m not sure we would have been allowed in even if it was open).

federal building SF 3

The other major contemporary San Franciscan building is of course the new DeYoung Museum by our old friends Herzog & DeMeuron (below). It occupies a slightly surreal setting in the Golden Gate Park next to the Academy of Sciences sporting some new Martian looking green roofed domes – part of a Renzo Piano renovation.

de young 1

The detailing by the swiss is fantastic throughout although the entrance to the museum is very understated. The perforated copper cladding refracts the light in different ways depending on the varying apertures of the perforation, and the screened twisting tower sneaks in between mature trees providing great views of the park. Once inside light is brought in through glazed gardens with minimalist eucalyptus softening the light.

de young
On our final night we managed to tick another Phaidon Atlas building off our list somewhat unintentionally. James took us to an art gallery opening which happened to be in a fantastic apartment in the Yerba Buena Lofts complex by Saitowitz Natoma. Although we only saw it at night it is a magnificent sleek concrete box with projections and recesses forming balconies and creating varied double height spaces in the apartments – it gave me plenty of food for thought for shaking up multi-res design here is Scotland – so much of it poky and unimaginative.

More archi porn on our flickr if u want a peek – NY SF.

san francisco

golden gate bridge

We had a great time in San Francisco although things didn’t always go according to plan – at times it seemed like everything we wanted to do was canceled or closed. Still days were spent exploring the various neighbourhoods and by night we visited a cross spectrum of San Fran’s ‘dive bars’ – it seems no bar is complete without a neon cocktail sign outside in this city.

san fran 2

We divided most of our time between the Haight (above) – the nexus of of the flower generation and the summer of love, now somewhat resembling the hippes from that era – a bit burnt out, still clinging to old values despite having sold out to the man and the rest in the Mission (below) – the more down at heel latino district now home to hipsters, cool graphic design shops and groovy bars as the gentrification begins.

san fran 4

Still San Fran still contains good sized chunks of seediness often squeezed in between the posher areas so that one minute you are swishing past Barney’s and the swanky Apple Store before only a block or two away hotel rooms are rented by the hour and the crack dealers are out in force. It was quite refreshing after the santised streets of NY.

san fran 1

We did attempt a couple of touristy things – drinking coffee in North Beach (above), riding a cable car and catching the ferry to Alcatraz – although our attempt to cross the Golden Gate bridge on a 50′s era fire truck was sadly thwarted by their schedule. We also visited the new Herzog & de Meuron – De Young Museum in the Golden Gate Park – an intriguing gallery which I’ll devote a separate post to with an excellent though esoteric collection (below).
san fran 3

oakland

grand theatre

Oakland was our decompression chamber – a relaxed couple of days before we headed into San Fran. Our friend James gave us a tour of the East bay including an awesome breakfast at a Thai temple in Berkeley and some stunning views from the Oakland Hills (below).

san fran skyline

We then spent the afternoon cruising the various districts of San Fran to get our bearings (and cover hilly areas by car rather than by foot!). Highlight (for me at least) was the new Federal Building by Thom Mayne (below)

federal building SF 1

federal building SF 2

although closely followed by the authentic Raider Nation cups that Jame’s girlfriend Jess brought back from the NFL game she was at. Following that we barely moved from the apartment apart from a brief wander out for brunch and a walk around Lake Merritt (below).

lake meritt sunset

a new york minute

just finished 10 whirlwind days in the big apple, summary below more detail and photos once I get back to Glasgow;

our general routine, wake.. breakfast: mmm bagels & cream cheese, museum: whitney, met, moma, moving image, PS1, lunch: uighar, dim sum, greek, venuzuelan, neighbourhood: lower east side, brooklyn, east village, SoHO, chinatown, brooklyn, midtown – no!, queens, west village, brooklyn (again!?!) dinner: italian, japanese, vietnamese, mexican (in a grocery store), korean; band: band of horses, too dead catholics, casiitone for the painfully alone, dr dog (sold out oops) then out somewhere (often brooklyn), sleep, repeat…

some architecture too in there – new new museum by sanaa, store front for art and architecture which is looking tired, cocktails and diller + scorfidio’s brasserie.

now in Oakland for a few days before crossing the bay to San Francisco – a little more relaxed for the next week I think…

off to see uncle sam

Haven’t been up to much recently as we are heading off for a couple of weeks in New York and San Fran – should be fun. We had a couple of friends up from Glasgow over the last weekend and turned out as the Adams Family at a southside Halloween do but otherwise had a quiet weekend.

On our return it looks like I’ll be house husband par excellence for a few weeks until my visa clears!

dour: day 4

wilco

Our penultimate day at Dour dawned hotter and grimier, and dragged us complaining out of our tents at an early hour. After depositing Dave in the local town for an epic (and no doubt smelly) trip to Milan, we chanced upon a shady patch of grass and proceeded to stay there for the next 6 hours till the heat relented (all this exposure to Scottish weather has made us wilt in any form of heat!).

Once we made it to the festival proper, the slums clearing to a wasteland as people packed or abandoned tents on the way our energy levels were pretty low, along with most of the crowd, especially the guy below.

sleep

We watched a straight-up set from Black Rebel Motorcycle Club, ducked to catch half of 65daysofstatic’s impressive performance (Battles meets Mogwai) before returning an entertaining show by Wilco. Amon Tobin then put on a massive two hour main stage closing set, including early Autechre to lift the energy levels a little. With a 20 min gap until Clark began, the fourth post-2am night began to catch up with us and despite a crisp fun set we (well Seb & I at least – Chhay was till powering on) caved half way through and headed back to the tent.

Monday was as wearying as expected – with packing up and a long return journey via London stretching the day out until 9 pm. The end to the festival was further soured when Seb had his bag (containing passport & camera) stolen from inside the tent – slightly less seriously one of Chhay’s fantastic fluorescent yellow boxing boots was also nicked – although they were is somewhat poorer condition than on the Thursday when we arrived (below).

chhay;s boots: after

dour: day 3

autechre - dour
In line with the best methods of the internet I’m just going to cut and paste from Seb’s latest group email for our day three description (extensive post length, illicit drug use and deity references warning!);

“A hot Saturday was mainly spent eating, playing 500 (you can’t stop Dave when he gets the cards in his hands), working on my tan in my Stubbies – and conserving energy for a big night. But at this point a note on camp hygiene is necessary.

The most dreaded activity was the water run: when our three or four litres ran out, someone had to make the trek through the slums and up to the nearest water station. There it stood, next to the awful toilets, in the middle of a godforsaken swamp which even the hottest Belgian sun could not begin to dry. People were washing dishes and themselves at the troughs with scant regard for water conservation, and a dark brown film of slime spread ever outwards, coating the nearby tents and rendering the path impassable to those without at least shoes, and preferably gumboots (the night before I had ended up ankle deep in filth on the way home). Undoubtedly the hygiene highlight, however, was the woman washing her hair in the trough downstream from two women cleaning out pots coated with tomato sauce.

That afternoon, I donned the swimming shorts and revelled as Dave slowly poured a 1.5l bottle of water over my head, enabling me to rinse the sweat and dirt coating from most of my body. Dave’s impatience was our most valuable asset in the fight for water; a confusing situation in which some people queued patiently while others pushed in, ensuring the queue rarely progressed.

But the real excitement began as we headed in at around 10pm: the authorities were finally attempting to clear a path through the slums! If only they had stationed just one person in each field to protect the paths on the Wednesday night, the whole ugly situation could have been avoided: confrontations between security and angry campers who had been there for three nights and saw no reason to move now; worse, the poor souls who had already left for the night’s music, and who would have returned in the wee hours to find their tents callously cast aside, and a path where none had been before.

It was great news for those of us in the outer suburbs, though.

OK, I hit enter twice. That’s because Autechre are about to enter our little story.
We warmed up with the Notwist, some nice German electro post-rock; after them, on one stage – La Petite Maison dans la Prairie, it was called! – and for one night only, were Luke Vibert, Autechre and Venetian Snares playing in succession. Vibert came on at 11:45 and was every bit as good as last year’s gig at the Prince of Wales where Avalon doesn’t remember talking to me. He played new acid house, breakbeats, jungle, he mixed in Vogue by Madonna and I didn’t hate it, there was even a hint of Aphex’s Start As You Mean To Go On. I was generally failry chilled, although after he dropped Squarepusher’s My Red Hot Car and everyone went berserk I was forced to join a group of drum and bass nutters on the floor and start some silliness…

… and then, from the ridiculously awesome to the sublime, the lights went down and the cleaniest, crunchiest beat imaginable exploded out of the speakers. For one hour, from 1am to 2am in the middle of a huge party – where they should be programmed – Autechre played easily the most amazingly fluid, unrelenting mix of electronic music I’ve ever heard. It was as hard and shiny as any of their new stuff, but with more regular beats and melodies than they’ve put out in at least a decade. The crowd felt suddenly devoid of the anger and macho energy of so much of the festival. Jaws dropped. Halfway in they hit a real sweet spot with a metallic rhythm being sucked into a blender, held down and then spat back out again; the guy behind me let out an ecstatic shout and whacked me on the shoulder. I turned to see him grinning incredulously at me, and I grinned back.

As the set got darker and faster, you could see some old school moves busted out as little pockets of energy burst out. Through the crowd, hand in hand, a group of desperately familiar feral ravers charged forward to help ignite the floor. It was eerily archetypal. I shivered with deja vu. I felt like I was in The Last Battle (as in Narnia) of raves, after the train wreck and the end of the world; that, if I just hung around long enough, I would hear every favourite track and meet every person I’d ever loved, from my old crews to the guy I smoked a joint with on a misty morning on the Melbourne docks.

In other words, it was a perfect hour. I’ve never had such high expectations, and they’ve never been exceeded like that. When the lights came on, I felt like I’d just heard God. For a moment, I completely forgot where I was or what I was doing. It was seriously disconcerting until I remembered that I’d just seen Autechre – and then I was happy but I still couldn’t speak. I missed most of Venetian Snares but I didn’t care.” (photo of post
author + chhay pre-autechre below).

seb + chhay

A link to a small snippet of totally underwhelming mono videos from Autechre’s set here & here – not that there is anything to see. The only element of that day not covered in Seb’s report, was the final act of the night – a scary German mc called Otto Von Schirach – who, dressed up in a cape with a giant headpiece on shouting intense lyrics into his mike scared us off after about 20 minutes, and Seb not long after that – he returned to camp with a frightened look complaining that the audience for Otto were all dwarves who were singing along to all of his demented lyrics!

dour: day 2

With a downpour overnight – Dour approached real music festival territory rapidly (mud, general filth, mud, crazy people on any number of substances, mud). Luckily the rain held off for the rest of the festival and things started to dry out over the course of the day but it was enough to coat everything in a light layer of stinky brown putrescence.

After escaping to Quievrain a local town far enough way to not have any other festival goers, for some additional supplies, a touch of civilisation and a decent loo, we headed into the main site to catch Hot Chip (above) turning the crowd into monkey’s with miniature cymbals with with same danceable early evening tunes.

After heading back to the tent for some pasta whipped up in true camping style on a trusty trangia we wander back in for Clap Your Hands Say Yeah (below) who played a great twilight set on a beautiful evening – one of my highlights of the festival and a much better performance than when we saw them in Glasgow last year. We then meandered over the a new stage that had opened up to catch a bit of a chilled out Bright Eyes who was a little duller than I had expected although with some great made-on-the-spot low-fi visuals.

clap your hands say yeah - dour

Seb then introduced us to breakbeat with a set from the UK’s Smith & Mighty – catchy if not really my scene. A brief boogie to Simian Mobile Disco marked them for future exploration before we upped the tempo a bit with some dubstep from Skream which again didn’t really catch me – although I am assured that they have performed better sets in different settings. Seb & Dave stayed on for Wiley but Chhay & I were back to the tent reasonably early to be fresh for the Saturday and the prime reason for us ending up in an obscure corner of Belgium in the first place…

hotchip1.jpg, originally uploaded by tarquinis.